Kissing the Pacific coast again…

We stayed a few nights in Cordoba. Did an oilchange on our bikes, enjoyed city nightlife and tried to stay cool in this hot place.

Tuesday november 9, we left and for the first time in weeks we enjoyed some twisty mountain roads again on our way to Mendoza.

We stopped for the night in a little village, where we practiced our Argentinean BBQ skills a little more. Next day we crossed a desert.

Long straight roads…leading to Mendoza, the winecapital of Argentine. What a nice city. Big plaza’s, long avenues, unlimited wine, beautiful people, great hostel…….All ingredients to stay some days.

We enjoyed a hostels BBQ and had some drinking & guitar sessions. Saul played guitar like a pro and we drank wine like a pro….

We also met George and Chris, two lads from Scotland driving two Suzuki V-stroms all the way down from Alaska to Ushuaia and end in Buenos Aires. Doing it all in three months. After two months they have done more miles than we did in nine….. Great guys, and always good for a laugh with there Brittish sense of humor. Cheersssshh boysssshh

November 16, we left Mendoza to cross the Andes into Chile. Two epic days we had ahead of us. We took the old gravel route leaving Mendoza. Twisty mountain route without any other traffic.

From Uspallata we picked up the main road. No words to describe this great route, bringing us to Puente del Inca at 2700m where we stayed for the night.

The road to the border passes the highest mountain of the Americas, Aconcagua with an altitude of 6.962m

Next morning, we rode the last part to the Chilean border. For the first time in nine months, entering the 18th country this trip, the customs wanted to see all our luggage. Too bad, we just had our dirty laundry done… We were not even allowed to bring three Argentinean apples into the country.

After the formalities we continued and descended from 3.000m to about 1.500m. Almost 30 hairpins all the way down!!

It crossed our minds, to go up again and do it all over….left, right, left, right… But the thought of meeting customs again….

After the Andes pass we drove all the way to Valparaiso. This is a colorful Chilean coastal city on a hill, giving nice views.

Here we wanted to arrange a Chilean insurance for the bikes, which we need in case of police checks. But apparently it was not possible for us (non-Chileans) to get one….

Computer says no..  We were left but only one option: creativeness.

Tomorrow we will hit the road south, picking up the smaller coastal routes. The next few months we will cross the Chilean/Argentinean border a few times on our way to Ushuaia. We have to be in Bariloche beginning of december. From there Bas will leave the team and will join Janneke. But, we arranged the best Bas-replacement we can imagine: the Black Elephant, who we will introduce later. First we have to adjust suspension for the BE….

Saludos,

Los tres amigos

PS1: George & Chris, thanks for the insurance templates

PS2: Here is Aussi Saul playing the guitar…..And he could also cook damn well.

Unpleasant, unexpected surprise……: Bas is going home!

After three nights Valparaiso we really wanted to get on our bikes again for some days.

We stayed well clear of the big central highway going south, and picked up the little coastal route. Surprisingly beautiful! Green hills, pine trees, the smell of flowers, nice bays, lovely views….and most of the time there was absolutely no one on the road. We spent a night in Pichilemu (nov 20), known by surfers for its left-hand break.

We practiced our Argentinean BBQ, Chilean style…. and got addicted to the 2 liter packs Gato Negro – Cabernet Sauvignon. Cheap, good and plenty…. We like.

Next day we continued on the beautiful coastal route. Great gravel roads along lakes and pacific bays.

Enjoying it all with Nescafe and over lunch….

In Pelluhue we found ourselves a cabana and had homemade pasta on the porch. We really enjoyed being on the road again….and away from cities.

Monday 22^nd we had a short ride. Bas and Steve now really needed to change their rear tyres. So that’s what we did on a hot afternoon. We could need some grip the upcoming days riding the lake district.

 With some fresh tyres we continued our trip land inwards towards the lakes. Camped at lago …..eh…something and continued the day after.

On Wednesday we entered the national park around Volcano Llaima (one of the most active volcanoes in Chile, last active in 2008), the Ruta Interlagos. Because summer is still a month away here, we were the only ones riding this great gravel route, with fantastic views on the white topped Volcano and lava rivers.

 Late in the afternoon we found a quiet spot near a river to set up camp.

We cooked, drank, talked, enjoyed….

We really enjoyed being away from modern civilization for a while…back to nature.

Next morning we woke up with sunshine, giving us great views of the volcano.

 After a quick morning shower, and a coffee, we continued on the ruta interlagos not knowing where we would end that day..…and not knowing what was about to happen.

Then……on a rocky downhill part…..Bas had difficulty controlling his bike and hit a rock. His ankle got swollen quickly and we couldn’t drive any further. We gave first aid near a river to keep the swelling down and find a ride to the nearest village. Roel and Steve took care of all the gear.

That night we ended in a Melipeuco. Bas got a first examination on his ankle. We had BBQ and a wine, hoping it wasn’t all too bad.

Next morning we went to Temuco to find a proper clinic. Bas’ ankle is broken. An abrupt end of our journey with the three of us……and also for Bas’ next trip with Janneke. Really sad.

Bas is going home now and we will wait for the Black Elephant who will continue on Bas’ bike.

Probably this is the risk of a trip like this. So, we will not complain. We will be thankful. We had the best times together the last ten months!

We didn’t just talk the talk. We walked the walk. Or even better, we rode the ride. Good luck healing…. See you in a few months.

Chao!

Roel, you want another fishermen’s friend? Pretty strong stuff….huh?

The Black Elephant

Introducing the new Dutch Dangleberry.

Bas is back home with his broken ankle. A surgery, 4 screws and a metal plate. His bike is still in Chile and we are in San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentine. Although Bas broke his ankle, the Black Elephant was already supposed to finish the trip on Bas bike. But, who is the black elephant?

The Black Elephant, a.k.a Roger, a.k.a. “de man die alles kan”. He handles aircraft, helicopters, cars and bikes. Is the fastest man on earth on a dirt bike and smokes the pipe like no one else.

Ok, serious. If it wasn’t for Roger, we might not even be in South America. We used his garage, tools and knowledge for over a year to get our old bikes ready. By then, the idea was born that he would come over at some point to join us. So…that is what’s happening now.

The only thing is, that we got quite used to Bas and all his habits. We decided Roger has to do everything Bas used to do.

Bas always navigated, maintained all our bikes, set up camp, inflated the airbeds, cooked, got all the beers, did the laundry and entertained us every time we were bored.

Ok…serious again. We are ready for the Black Elephant (BE).

Welcome aboard  Roger.

PS: Last news about the Black Elelphant. He was supposed to arrive thursday night, but is already delayed. Aircraft broke down and is now waiting in London. Nysh start…

PS2: Also check the “Guys” page to learn a bit more about BE

Bariloche….3 times in two weeks

Bas left us about two weeks ago from little Chilean village Melipeuco. Last night with Bas we had a meatfest on the BBQ. Because Bas couldn’t walk, Roel and Steve could eat all the meat.

The next day Roel and Steve hit the road and left the bike at Senor Pablo in Melipeuco. We didn’t get any further than Villarrica. Still not really knowing what to do with our time until Roger would arrive, we found out that Aldo (Dutch guy we met months ago) was in Bariloche. We decided to cross the border near the Lanin volcano and spent the night in San Martin de los Andes.

December 1 we drove via national park Nahuel Huapi to Bariloche.

It was terribly cold, windy and rainy. Stopped several times to warm our hands on the engine. Still thousands of kilometers away from Ushuaia and already this cold….better invest in some warmer clothes. In Bariloche we had a great time with Aldo and the Irish Pub. But still, we had to wait a week until the black elephant would arrive. Still cold in Bariloche and with some beers in the irish pub we came up with the best plan…..

Friday (dec 3) Steve was in a nightbus to Mendoza and Roel to Cordoba.

We both spent our time a few days in the nicest weather and with friends we met before. Good times. By that time, the dangleberries were pretty spread out: Bas was in Holland, Roger in Italy, Roel in Cordoba, Steve in Mendoza, two bikes in Bariloche and one in Chile…..

On wednesday we both returned to Bariloche where it was still rainy, snowy and cold. Finally on friday 10 december The Black Elephant arrived, with a 26 hours delay. After 10 months Bas, we were used to the sight of Bas’ blond mullet dancing in the wind under his helmet. We came to the airport well prepared.

We went straight to the Irish pub……

Next day we didn’t have an early departure. We had to get back into Chile to pick up the third bike. We left most of our  luggage in the hostel and went with three on two bikes.

A great ride over the mountains into Chile. Although almost summer here, there was plenty of snow.

We spent one night in Osorno and met some people who could need some help along the way.

Sunday we drove to Melipeuco.

It was Roger’s birthday. We celebrated it with a South African BBQ. Roger teaching, Roel and Steve making notes….(”slachtpalen”, “twee-hoef, eenhoef nie goed nie”, “hard hout”).

Quality!!

Next morning we woke up with sunshine! Did the ruta Interlagos to the Argentinean border again, this time with three bikes. Passing the beautiful Lanin volcano again and were in the promised land again.

We spent the night in San Martin de los Andes again and next day (dec 14) we took the nice route through park Nahuel Huapi again. This time with the most beautiful weather. What a difference with last time.

And for the third time we arrived in Bariloche…again.

Time for some TLC on the bikes and for sure it is time to drive south for christmas….

Chao amigos!

FELIZ NAVID, MERRY CHRISTMAS, VROLIJK KERSTFEEST, GESEËNDE KERSFEES

Amigos, we made it to El Calafate for Christmas….on our last drops of gasoline.

The last week was for sure a highlight of this trip. Breathtakingly beautiful, the longest ride so far, all weather braai (bbq), severe winds, wildlife……

We left Bariloche december 16 after a day of maintenance. We drove the curvy route to el Bolson and from there the dirtroad national park route passing several lakes.

We stopped for the night in Trevelin.

Next morning we crossed the border again into Chile, following the Futaleufu river. As usual, the Chileans were very strict with importing the very dangerous Argentinean apples, so they searched our bags.

The customs guy was  a bit surprised when he found the blond Bas-mullet in Roger’s bag….. Afraid to find some stockings and high heels as well, he let us through.

A fantastic route along the Futaleufu river into Chile, bringing us to the legendary Carretera Austral. This gravel road built by Pinochet (about 1200 km long) connects the most remote villages in Chile.

We stopped for the night in La Junta and found a little cabana for the night. There we practised our all weather braai (bbq) a bit more.

The teacher teaching, the student making notes….

The Carretera Austral is very beautiful and very green…..that means a lot of rain. So next day we had a cold and rainy start to Coyhaique. You can’t really wait for better weather here, cause mostly….there just isn’t.

But mostly, the sun will shine at some part of the day…and then everything looks colorful again.

In Coyhaique we stayed two nights. We had to do some maintenance on Rogers bike. He had a major oil leakage…..that’s not a real problem….as long as you keep filling her up with oil. But all the oil was leaking on his rear tyre. So….he fixed the gasket as good as possible.

Monday 20th we continued. Some parts of the Austral are paved….and for bikers fun they added some hairpins.

Roger was very happy he didn’t have an oily tyre anymore.

We wanted to take the ferry at Pto Ibanez to Chile Chico and cross the Lago General Carrera (second biggest lake in South America). Because of the severe winds, the ferry didn’t leave.

Next departure was in the evening. We decided to ride around the lake. It started raining. We continued on the gravel road. End of the story…we lost each other on the gravel road, problems on Roels bike, and one of the bikes had done too many kilometers to continue. So we had to turn around and go back to Ibanez again. We tried to take the evening ferry. Still too much wind. Spent the night in the little shitty village and tried the ferry again next morning. Still too much wind. Again we decided to ride around the lake. Flat tyre on Rogers bike….sigh… Somehow it really felt that we were not allowed to go around the lake.

The route was amazingly beautiful. It is hard to describe the area here. At some points it looks like Canada meets Switzerland and Scotland. And at some parts where the lakes are turquoise colored, the Caribbean added some flavor as well.

In Cochrane it was business as usual: cabana and Afrikaanse braai.

Next day we crossed the border again. That ride was epic. On a 200km stretch we only met 2 other bikes and 2 cars. Fantastic scenery with wild horses and guanaco’s.

From the green Austral, we got into the dry Argentinean desert.

Strong strong winds, blowing us almost from our bikes. It is good that there is hardly any traffic, cause at some points we really needed the entire road to keep the bike in upward position.

Dead tired we stopped for gas and a bed in Bajo Caracoles….a tiny village on the Ruta 40, one of the longest roads in the world.

We woke up after a 10 hours sleep (tien punt nulletje). Let’s go to El Calafate. It would be the longest ride so far on our trip. But there is simply nothing in between. The Ruta 40 is partly paved / unpaved.

Along the way we found a dinosaur

A few hundred kilometers riding in gravel with severe crosswinds….again blowing us almost from our bikes. Somehow we missed a gassation (if there was any at all) and finally after 350km dirt we arrived in Tres Lagos.

We really needed some gas to make it to El Calafate. The strong winds must have influenced our fuel consumption badly, we know bikers who doubled there fuel consumption. No gas!!! the gasstation was empty. Now what? There was a pick-up truck with a dirtbike in the back. We asked the owner if we could use the fuel. The gasstation owner had a trike. In the end we sucked about 6 liters from the tanks and Roel still had a 5 liters spare. We decided to give it a go. Our helmet on the tanks, Steve up front, riding 5th gear optimum speed, the others slipstreaming at just a few centimeters.

160 km to go…..going like a train…….120km to go……body starts aching from the uncomfortable position…..80km to go…..still a lot of wind…..40km to go……all three using reserve fuel…….20km to go…..first bike out of fuel……shared the last few liters from the emergency jerrycan….10km to go….El Calafate in sight. We made it. We filled 75 liters of gas for three bikes at the gasstation. Christmas in Calafate and not on Ruta 40.  We will stay some days here, do an oilchange, visit the Perito Moreno Glacier and then it’s time to go to Ushuaia. The most southern city in the world…

But first enjoy the good weather in Calafate…

Amigos, this is our last post of 2010. We want to thank all of you who have followed our journey. Thanks for the great comments, emails and thoughts.

Thinking of all of you!

Special thought are with Simon, Sonja, Joris&Marlyn

To all: Enjoy Christmas and have the happiest new year…..

Don’t dream your life….live your dream!!!

Saludos

Raul, el elefante negro y Esteban

WE’VE MADE IT: EL FIN DEL MUNDO

After 36420 km, 10 months and 19 days, we arrived in Ushuaia (dec 30), the most southern town in the world. El fin del mundo, the end of the world as they call it over here.

From here we would like to wish everyone a happy new year.

We only have another month left for this trip, ending in Buenos Aires in february.

The best way to finish this trip is probably the same as how we started it: with a party in Amsterdam. So, we would like to invite you to come to Amsterdam and have beer with us.

Date: 12 February at 20.00 hrs.

Location: Amsterdam, café De Deugniet. In front of the Heffer, where we had our farewell party (but not available this time).

Don’t think you are not invited for some reason. The fact that you are reading this means that you are. And besides, our budget is long gone, so we can probably buy you just one beer. We just want a lot of people to come and hope you will buy us a beer!!

Cheers

The only way is up!

We’ve traveled a lot of miles since our last (proper) post from El Calafate. Let’s see….

December 26th, we visited the Perito Moreno glacier. Very impressive.

We were lucky to see a big ice cube breaking of. Incredible sound and view.

We left El Calafate the 27th. We were now this close to Ushuaia, and wanted to celebrate new year there. We crossed the border into Chile again and drove to Puerto Natales.

The roads were very windy again,….looking for shelter everywhere

And again, we couldn’t get gas. Well, there was just no one there…

From Natales we drove to Punta Arenas, where we weren’t welcome on the ferry. Drove to another  little ferry crossing. Welcome to Tierra del Fuego was the first thing we read after leaving the ferry.

We could almost smell Ushuaia by then. Another 100km of gravelroad, the third flat tyre on Rogers bike since he joined us, a border crossing, another gasstation without gas and some more miles before we reached Rio Grande.

Our final stop before el fin del Mundo. December 30 we did the final part to Ushuaia. The Tierra del Fuego landscape changed from grassy hills with sheep into mountains with snowy tops.

Made it. We set up camp near the Rio Pipo river and celebrated new year on the campsite with a BBQ, a bonfire and some other bikers. We ended with watching the first sunrise of 2011 in downtown Ushuaia…..

A great start of 2011….hangover.

January 2, we left Ushuaia with the nicest weather, probably one of the few in a year. We were lucky when we were there. It looked very touristy with the big Antarctic cruise ships.

Along our way up, we stopped again in Tolhuin at the best bakery in South America. Unbelievable that in this little village down south they make the best bread and cakes. It was so busy on sunday that the police was there to keep order.

After a night in Rio Grande again, we continued north the next day. Crossing the border twice within 200km. Argentina out, Chile in, Chile out, Argentina in. Why didn’t they create some sort of no-mans-land for this little stretch of land? Would save a lot of people a lot of paperwork.

In Argentina we picked up the Ruta 3. This road goes from Buenos Aires all the way to Ushuaia, 3045km. There are basically two ways that go north-south in Argentina. The ruta 40 in the west, which we partially took down and the 3 in the east, which we have to take all the way up. You can actually count down to Buenos Aires cause every kilometer is indicated alongside the road. This must be one the longest and most boring roads in the world. You cross through a desert for days.

Long straight roads.

The only thing that makes it really interesting is the strong wind. They keep on warning you for this. We were lucky the last few days. We only had moderate winds.

Entire Patagonia is windy.  Everyday and from the same direction. As Dutchmen, we just couldn’t understand that we didn’t count one single windturbine! We advised the locals about this. But if they don’t want to listen: “just beat our advise in the wind”. Because in Holland we always say: “from the wind we can not live” and after a few days of riding “we smell an hour in the wind”.

Anyway, everday we wake up, get on the 3, and head north for some hours. Even we did some great mileage, with a new record of 640km in a day. Not because we wanted, but there just isn’t any reason to stop, except for gasstations.

On our way up, we had one of the best asados (bbq) so far.

And for the last time this trip: Freddy Mercury

January 6, we left the ruta 3 to visit Punta Tombo. One of the largest magellanic penguins colonies in the world live here.

Penguins everywhere….

living in harmony with guanacos.

After a few days riding north we arrived in better weather again and said “toedeledoki” to our wintergloves. Welcome back summer! Yesterday we enjoyed a morning beer on the beach in Puerto Madryn.

Monday we continue on ruta 3, counting down up north…. What’s next? Right now we are thinking of intercepting the Dakar on its last day to Buenos Aires. After that we might sneak into Brasil again and say goodbye to our friends in Santa Maria…..

We’ll keep you posted.

Saludos

the DDB’s